Hirony
14-07-2008, 11:06
Per chi ha la necessità di un kit più potente di quelli da 35 watt normalmente in commercio...
http://www.hid50.com/
What's in a HID50 kit?
A HID50 kit consists of two high performance 50 watt waterproof ballasts and two 50 watt UV shielded burners.
Our Ultra Thin HID Kits need no brackets, but do come with screws, cable ties and an installation guide. This is all that is required to mount the kit, tho custom brackets are available (see details on installation page) and Dual Lock industrial velcro is also available for the easiest ballast fitting option.
The kits are all pre tested before leaving the factory.
NOTE: We have tried and tested kits and components from a number of factories and suppliers and while there is little to no difference in terms of light output, there is a enormous difference in terms of the quality of components that goes into the kits and the subsequent reliability of those kits. We have chosen not to save a few quid here and there by using cheaper kits and have gone for the best components at every choice. We also insist our suppliers test each and every kit for 24 hours before packaging. The result is we trade on our name, with the most durable and reliable kits on the market.
For example: Our UltraThin ballasts are not just water resistant, our UltraThin ballasts work under water. Ask your supplier what happens with their ballasts if you try and run them while the ballast is immersed in a jar of water.
The current ballasts and bulbs were further durability tested on some severe rocky off-road motorcycling in Morocco and the Pyrenees mountains in Spain. Suspensions were damaged, but the ballasts and bulbs suffered no faults.
http://www.endless-highway.info/HID50/Kit9.jpg
http://www.endless-highway.info/HID50/Kit8.jpg
Ballasts
There are two types of HID50 ballasts:
(1) Ultra-50: Ultra-Thin 50 watt ballasts. The UltraThin 50s are not only around a third the size of conventional ballasts, but they feature an exceptionally quick response from cold to full power, unlike the vast bulk of HID ballasts which take 4 -5 seconds to approach full power. These measure 90 x 65 mm (3.5 x 2.5 inches) and are a mere 13 mm (half an inch) thick. Ultra-Thin 50 are the most rugged and durable 50 watt ballast on the market.
(2) Ultra-35: Ultra-Thin 35 watt ballasts. These are a tiny 70 x 60mm (2.8 x 2.4 inches) and are also a very compact 13 mm thick. These are the only 35 watt ballasts we do, and the only reason we broke the mould of selling only 50 watt ballasts is that these are the best quality 35 watt ballasts I have used bar none. They have tested operating fully underwater, and have a particularly strong casing. HID50's original aim was to sell only 50 watt HID kits, but these ballasts made us rethink the strategy. If we are going to do 35 watt HIDs, then we are going to do the best quality, best design, most compact funky 35 watt HIDs in the market.
All HID50 ballasts are waterproof and dustproof. Additionally, they feature:
(a) Overload protection. The ballasts cut out at 18 volts to prevent electrical damage.
(b) Low Voltage Protection. The ballasts shut down at 8 volts or under to prevent drawing excessive current from the battery.
http://www.endless-highway.info/HID50/ballastsultra.jpg
Above: A Ultra-50 (top) compared to a mobile phone and an Ultra-35 ballast.
Both types of ballasts are flat on the back and can be securely mounted with the likes of 3M "Dual Lock" tape. In tight spaces, the Dual Lock mounting affords more mounting options, particularly with the UltraThin 50s or 35s than other methods.
Stop Press: HID50 can now supply Dual Lock with your order. See Installation page for more information.
Burners / Bulbs
HID50 are able to supply H1, H3, H7, and H11 fitments. Other fitments may be available on request. Standard colour temperatures are 5000K and 6000K. Other colours may be available on request.
If no colour choice is specified, HID50 will include 6000K bulbs.
Cost
*
Ultra-50 kits in H1, H3, H7 or H11 fitments, in 5000K or 6000K are £159.00 plus p&p
*
Ultra-35 kits in H1, H3, H7 or H11 fitments, in 5000K or 6000K are £119.00 plus p&p
*
Single H4 High / Low kits with Ultra-35 ballast in 6000K are £89.00 plus p&p
*
Other bulb fitments, H8, H9, H10, H13, 9005, 9006, D2S, or kits in 4300K or 8000K may be available for £20 extra on special order
*
Postage and Packaging is £9.00 per kit (to the UK). Postage to other destinations is also possible.
STOP PRESS: We now do special mixed bulb kits for KTM motorcycles that require 1 H7 bulb and 1 H3 bulb. These come only with the Ultra-50 Ballasts and are a £5 premium on the standard kits.
STOP PRESS: We now do special mixed bulb kits for Triumph motorcycles that require 1 H7 bulb and 1 H9 bulb. These come only with the Ultra-50 Ballasts and are a £5 premium on the standard kits.
Installation of HID lighting.
Fitting to Motorcycles
When fitting to bikes, do it in 3 separate steps
(1) Remove the headlight unit and do the fiddling around with the burners that way. Trying to fit the new burners without removing the headlight unit is a recipe for frustration swearing and skinned knuckles – and therefore misery. You will also need a 23-25 mm (1 inch) drill bit (you need to make a circular hole on the back of the headlight units two round caps.)
(2) Find where you want to locate the ballasts, and mount them – make sure they are close enough to the headlights for the cables to reach – it’s near impossible to extend them. I have my 1200 GSA headlight ballasts between the screen and the back of the instrument panel. Others have chosen different locations. There is no best answer. But do note that if you mount under the oil cooler on a GS or GSA, the forks "move forward" under compression, so the ballasts can not project further back than that rear edge of the oil cooler. Some end up getting custom brackets made up for the ballasts, while my preferred option now that we have moved exclusively on to ultra-thin ballasts, is just to mount them with 3M VHB (Very High Bond) double sided tape or 3M VHB Dual Lock industrial velcro. Everyone seems to find different locations to mount the ballasts. You have to be creative with motorbikes re ballasts mounting. There is always room though, I have 6 ballasts on my 1200 GSA … you just have to find the room.
(3) Connect everything up. And power up !
Note that sometimes the kits come with slightly different wires that are nominated in the installation booklets. The booklets refer to red being positive and black negative. Usually that's the case with the kits but occasionally I get kits with blue and black wires. In those examples, the black wire remains negative, and the blue wire is positive.
Here it is again in a bit more detail:
HID Conversion Kit Installation, for BMW motorcycles.
1.
Remove Headlight unit from motorcycle, ensuring motorcycle is switched off. No need to remove battery.
2.
Unscrew the plastic caps at the back of the housing that provide access to the bulbs.
3.
In the centre of the two plastic caps that were removed earlier, drill a 23-25 mm (1 inch) hole (with a hole saw bit or a flat wood bit).
4.
Unlatch the bulb retaining spring clip, and remove the old halogen bulbs. The plastic that holds the spring clips is brittle and prone to break. Be careful.
5.
Pass the bulb and two wires with open spade connectors through the newly drilled out hole in each plastic cap until the rubber grommet is seated in the newly drilled hole.
6.
Insert new HID bulbs, ensuring they are correctly aligned. Note that the 4 wires will slide back and forwards through the grommet. I advise that when you are fiddling around getting the bulb in, that you pull as much wire to the bulb side of the grommet as possible to avoid skinned knuckles and excess frustration. When seating the new bulbs, the H1 is hard to get wrong, but the H7 is easily gotten wrong. Make sure the bulbs are correctly seated before closing the bulb retaining spring clip, again taking care not to damage the poorly made housing around the base of the spring clip.
7.
Connect the spade connectors up to the motorcycle’s headlight power. (see 8 and 9 below for H7 and H1 respectively)
8.
The spade connectors attach to the contact block that previously plugged into the back of the bulb. On a H7 kit, the brown BMW wire (negative) needs to lead to the black spade connector wire (negative). And the white or yellow BMW wire (positive) needs to connect to the blue or red spade connector wire (positive).
9.
On a H1 kit, the BMW earth is plugged to the headlight housing and needs to be removed before connecting to the black spade connector. They may need to be crimped together with a pair of pliers if they are different shapes. The wire that connected to the H1 bulb is the positive and needs to be connected to the blue or red wire’s spade connector.
10.
Plug the wires that come from the bulb into ballasts with the “its impossible to plug in the wrong way” connectors and check the HIDs have been wired up correctly by turning the appropriate lights on. Note both ballasts in the kit are identical, so you do not need to pair a particular ballast with a particular bulb.
11.
Close up the headlight unit by screwing back in the plastic caps. Note that the 4 wires will slide back and forwards through the grommet. It is advisable to pull out excess wire from the headlight housing as you close the unit, to avoid having too much crowded wiring inside the cramped headlight housing. Similarly, I advise that when you are fiddling around getting the bulb in, that you pull as much wire to the bulb side of the grommet as possible to avoid skinned knuckles and excess frustration.
12.
Next stage … mounting the ballasts. It’s really up to each individual to mount ballasts and a number of different brackets and locations are possible. Make sure the ballasts are mounted so that their cables can comfortably reach the appropriate bulbs. The ultrathin kits are can be screwed or otherwise attached to a flat clean surface. Increasingly, my mounting of choice is to use 3M double sided tape or Dual Lock industrial velcro. See below for more info on industrial velcro, and note the first 3 pictures have UltraThin HID ballasts attached with Dual Lock industrial velcro.
Note: BMWs have unique wire colours.
White wire : high beam positive
Yellow wire : low beam positive
Brown wires : earth (negative)
Ballast location examples
http://www.endless-highway.info/HID50/install20.JPG
http://www.endless-highway.info/HID50/install21.JPG
In the above two fotos, the four fog and driving light ballasts (two Ultra35s and two Ultra50s) are attached to a custom plate using 3M's Dual Lock industrial velcro, which I can supply (see below)
http://www.endless-highway.info/HID50/install22.JPG
In the foto above, the two headlight ballasts are attached to the top of the headlight unit using nothing but small patches of Dual Lock
http://www.endless-highway.info/HID50/install5.jpg
The foto above shows space inside the steering well where even a larger ballast can be mounted on each side of the 1200 GS / GSA bike
Brackets
There are custom made ballast mounting brackets available for the BMW 1200 GS and GSA.
We don't manufacture or sell them, but we do recommend them and can put you in touch with the manufacturers of these:
The Wassall Bracket
http://www.endless-highway.info/HID50/Wassall1200.JPG
Above: The Wassall bracket. Its versatility is that it was be able to handle any ballasts, large or small. This is useful if you ever need to change to a different style of ballast at a future date. Its upgrade friendly. You can fit up to 4 of the new UltraThin ballasts side by side on a Wassall bracket.
http://www.endless-highway.info/HID50/Wassall1228.JPG
Pics above: The Wassall bracket fitted with UltraThin ballasts
The Cook Bracket
http://www.endless-highway.info/HID50/Cookie001.jpg
Pic above, a new Cook bracket for the Ultra50 ballasts, in a fetching black finish. Its advantage is its lightness and simplicity. For the simple task of mounting HID50s latest UltraThin ballasts, the Cook bracket is the simplest and lightest custom under beak bracket that we know of. Fitting the bracket is very quick, simple and easy.
http://www.endless-highway.info/HID50/Cookie002.jpg
Pic above shows the Cook bracket fitted
http://www.endless-highway.info/HID50/Cookie003.jpg
Pic above shows the Cook bracket and ballasts fitted
http://www.hid50.com/
What's in a HID50 kit?
A HID50 kit consists of two high performance 50 watt waterproof ballasts and two 50 watt UV shielded burners.
Our Ultra Thin HID Kits need no brackets, but do come with screws, cable ties and an installation guide. This is all that is required to mount the kit, tho custom brackets are available (see details on installation page) and Dual Lock industrial velcro is also available for the easiest ballast fitting option.
The kits are all pre tested before leaving the factory.
NOTE: We have tried and tested kits and components from a number of factories and suppliers and while there is little to no difference in terms of light output, there is a enormous difference in terms of the quality of components that goes into the kits and the subsequent reliability of those kits. We have chosen not to save a few quid here and there by using cheaper kits and have gone for the best components at every choice. We also insist our suppliers test each and every kit for 24 hours before packaging. The result is we trade on our name, with the most durable and reliable kits on the market.
For example: Our UltraThin ballasts are not just water resistant, our UltraThin ballasts work under water. Ask your supplier what happens with their ballasts if you try and run them while the ballast is immersed in a jar of water.
The current ballasts and bulbs were further durability tested on some severe rocky off-road motorcycling in Morocco and the Pyrenees mountains in Spain. Suspensions were damaged, but the ballasts and bulbs suffered no faults.
http://www.endless-highway.info/HID50/Kit9.jpg
http://www.endless-highway.info/HID50/Kit8.jpg
Ballasts
There are two types of HID50 ballasts:
(1) Ultra-50: Ultra-Thin 50 watt ballasts. The UltraThin 50s are not only around a third the size of conventional ballasts, but they feature an exceptionally quick response from cold to full power, unlike the vast bulk of HID ballasts which take 4 -5 seconds to approach full power. These measure 90 x 65 mm (3.5 x 2.5 inches) and are a mere 13 mm (half an inch) thick. Ultra-Thin 50 are the most rugged and durable 50 watt ballast on the market.
(2) Ultra-35: Ultra-Thin 35 watt ballasts. These are a tiny 70 x 60mm (2.8 x 2.4 inches) and are also a very compact 13 mm thick. These are the only 35 watt ballasts we do, and the only reason we broke the mould of selling only 50 watt ballasts is that these are the best quality 35 watt ballasts I have used bar none. They have tested operating fully underwater, and have a particularly strong casing. HID50's original aim was to sell only 50 watt HID kits, but these ballasts made us rethink the strategy. If we are going to do 35 watt HIDs, then we are going to do the best quality, best design, most compact funky 35 watt HIDs in the market.
All HID50 ballasts are waterproof and dustproof. Additionally, they feature:
(a) Overload protection. The ballasts cut out at 18 volts to prevent electrical damage.
(b) Low Voltage Protection. The ballasts shut down at 8 volts or under to prevent drawing excessive current from the battery.
http://www.endless-highway.info/HID50/ballastsultra.jpg
Above: A Ultra-50 (top) compared to a mobile phone and an Ultra-35 ballast.
Both types of ballasts are flat on the back and can be securely mounted with the likes of 3M "Dual Lock" tape. In tight spaces, the Dual Lock mounting affords more mounting options, particularly with the UltraThin 50s or 35s than other methods.
Stop Press: HID50 can now supply Dual Lock with your order. See Installation page for more information.
Burners / Bulbs
HID50 are able to supply H1, H3, H7, and H11 fitments. Other fitments may be available on request. Standard colour temperatures are 5000K and 6000K. Other colours may be available on request.
If no colour choice is specified, HID50 will include 6000K bulbs.
Cost
*
Ultra-50 kits in H1, H3, H7 or H11 fitments, in 5000K or 6000K are £159.00 plus p&p
*
Ultra-35 kits in H1, H3, H7 or H11 fitments, in 5000K or 6000K are £119.00 plus p&p
*
Single H4 High / Low kits with Ultra-35 ballast in 6000K are £89.00 plus p&p
*
Other bulb fitments, H8, H9, H10, H13, 9005, 9006, D2S, or kits in 4300K or 8000K may be available for £20 extra on special order
*
Postage and Packaging is £9.00 per kit (to the UK). Postage to other destinations is also possible.
STOP PRESS: We now do special mixed bulb kits for KTM motorcycles that require 1 H7 bulb and 1 H3 bulb. These come only with the Ultra-50 Ballasts and are a £5 premium on the standard kits.
STOP PRESS: We now do special mixed bulb kits for Triumph motorcycles that require 1 H7 bulb and 1 H9 bulb. These come only with the Ultra-50 Ballasts and are a £5 premium on the standard kits.
Installation of HID lighting.
Fitting to Motorcycles
When fitting to bikes, do it in 3 separate steps
(1) Remove the headlight unit and do the fiddling around with the burners that way. Trying to fit the new burners without removing the headlight unit is a recipe for frustration swearing and skinned knuckles – and therefore misery. You will also need a 23-25 mm (1 inch) drill bit (you need to make a circular hole on the back of the headlight units two round caps.)
(2) Find where you want to locate the ballasts, and mount them – make sure they are close enough to the headlights for the cables to reach – it’s near impossible to extend them. I have my 1200 GSA headlight ballasts between the screen and the back of the instrument panel. Others have chosen different locations. There is no best answer. But do note that if you mount under the oil cooler on a GS or GSA, the forks "move forward" under compression, so the ballasts can not project further back than that rear edge of the oil cooler. Some end up getting custom brackets made up for the ballasts, while my preferred option now that we have moved exclusively on to ultra-thin ballasts, is just to mount them with 3M VHB (Very High Bond) double sided tape or 3M VHB Dual Lock industrial velcro. Everyone seems to find different locations to mount the ballasts. You have to be creative with motorbikes re ballasts mounting. There is always room though, I have 6 ballasts on my 1200 GSA … you just have to find the room.
(3) Connect everything up. And power up !
Note that sometimes the kits come with slightly different wires that are nominated in the installation booklets. The booklets refer to red being positive and black negative. Usually that's the case with the kits but occasionally I get kits with blue and black wires. In those examples, the black wire remains negative, and the blue wire is positive.
Here it is again in a bit more detail:
HID Conversion Kit Installation, for BMW motorcycles.
1.
Remove Headlight unit from motorcycle, ensuring motorcycle is switched off. No need to remove battery.
2.
Unscrew the plastic caps at the back of the housing that provide access to the bulbs.
3.
In the centre of the two plastic caps that were removed earlier, drill a 23-25 mm (1 inch) hole (with a hole saw bit or a flat wood bit).
4.
Unlatch the bulb retaining spring clip, and remove the old halogen bulbs. The plastic that holds the spring clips is brittle and prone to break. Be careful.
5.
Pass the bulb and two wires with open spade connectors through the newly drilled out hole in each plastic cap until the rubber grommet is seated in the newly drilled hole.
6.
Insert new HID bulbs, ensuring they are correctly aligned. Note that the 4 wires will slide back and forwards through the grommet. I advise that when you are fiddling around getting the bulb in, that you pull as much wire to the bulb side of the grommet as possible to avoid skinned knuckles and excess frustration. When seating the new bulbs, the H1 is hard to get wrong, but the H7 is easily gotten wrong. Make sure the bulbs are correctly seated before closing the bulb retaining spring clip, again taking care not to damage the poorly made housing around the base of the spring clip.
7.
Connect the spade connectors up to the motorcycle’s headlight power. (see 8 and 9 below for H7 and H1 respectively)
8.
The spade connectors attach to the contact block that previously plugged into the back of the bulb. On a H7 kit, the brown BMW wire (negative) needs to lead to the black spade connector wire (negative). And the white or yellow BMW wire (positive) needs to connect to the blue or red spade connector wire (positive).
9.
On a H1 kit, the BMW earth is plugged to the headlight housing and needs to be removed before connecting to the black spade connector. They may need to be crimped together with a pair of pliers if they are different shapes. The wire that connected to the H1 bulb is the positive and needs to be connected to the blue or red wire’s spade connector.
10.
Plug the wires that come from the bulb into ballasts with the “its impossible to plug in the wrong way” connectors and check the HIDs have been wired up correctly by turning the appropriate lights on. Note both ballasts in the kit are identical, so you do not need to pair a particular ballast with a particular bulb.
11.
Close up the headlight unit by screwing back in the plastic caps. Note that the 4 wires will slide back and forwards through the grommet. It is advisable to pull out excess wire from the headlight housing as you close the unit, to avoid having too much crowded wiring inside the cramped headlight housing. Similarly, I advise that when you are fiddling around getting the bulb in, that you pull as much wire to the bulb side of the grommet as possible to avoid skinned knuckles and excess frustration.
12.
Next stage … mounting the ballasts. It’s really up to each individual to mount ballasts and a number of different brackets and locations are possible. Make sure the ballasts are mounted so that their cables can comfortably reach the appropriate bulbs. The ultrathin kits are can be screwed or otherwise attached to a flat clean surface. Increasingly, my mounting of choice is to use 3M double sided tape or Dual Lock industrial velcro. See below for more info on industrial velcro, and note the first 3 pictures have UltraThin HID ballasts attached with Dual Lock industrial velcro.
Note: BMWs have unique wire colours.
White wire : high beam positive
Yellow wire : low beam positive
Brown wires : earth (negative)
Ballast location examples
http://www.endless-highway.info/HID50/install20.JPG
http://www.endless-highway.info/HID50/install21.JPG
In the above two fotos, the four fog and driving light ballasts (two Ultra35s and two Ultra50s) are attached to a custom plate using 3M's Dual Lock industrial velcro, which I can supply (see below)
http://www.endless-highway.info/HID50/install22.JPG
In the foto above, the two headlight ballasts are attached to the top of the headlight unit using nothing but small patches of Dual Lock
http://www.endless-highway.info/HID50/install5.jpg
The foto above shows space inside the steering well where even a larger ballast can be mounted on each side of the 1200 GS / GSA bike
Brackets
There are custom made ballast mounting brackets available for the BMW 1200 GS and GSA.
We don't manufacture or sell them, but we do recommend them and can put you in touch with the manufacturers of these:
The Wassall Bracket
http://www.endless-highway.info/HID50/Wassall1200.JPG
Above: The Wassall bracket. Its versatility is that it was be able to handle any ballasts, large or small. This is useful if you ever need to change to a different style of ballast at a future date. Its upgrade friendly. You can fit up to 4 of the new UltraThin ballasts side by side on a Wassall bracket.
http://www.endless-highway.info/HID50/Wassall1228.JPG
Pics above: The Wassall bracket fitted with UltraThin ballasts
The Cook Bracket
http://www.endless-highway.info/HID50/Cookie001.jpg
Pic above, a new Cook bracket for the Ultra50 ballasts, in a fetching black finish. Its advantage is its lightness and simplicity. For the simple task of mounting HID50s latest UltraThin ballasts, the Cook bracket is the simplest and lightest custom under beak bracket that we know of. Fitting the bracket is very quick, simple and easy.
http://www.endless-highway.info/HID50/Cookie002.jpg
Pic above shows the Cook bracket fitted
http://www.endless-highway.info/HID50/Cookie003.jpg
Pic above shows the Cook bracket and ballasts fitted